Rick Owens Fall Winter 2021

MARCH 5, 2021
WORDS JESÚS S FERRERA

A walkway on the beach located across the street from Owen’s house was the set for the Fall Winter 2021 show. It was the second chapter following the Menswear collection presented in January, with which it shared not only the name, but also the vision and the essence.

Unlike most of the shows, the American designer has decided to show live, albeit without an audience. Several cameras placed in different perspectives and even a drone allowed us to see the models walking down the walkway. But we were also able to see the backstage, with clothes racks hanging the looks, staff working on the show and, of course, Rick and Lala overseeing that everything was flowing.

As seen in the Menswear show, the models were wearing masks. Which is, in my opinion, a good decision, taking into account that we do not yet know for how long masks will continue to be a part of our daily outfits.

As for clothing, dark tones have been protagonists, as usual when alluding to Owens: blacks, browns, dark greens, purples, grays. But we have also seen a modicum of light, with some off-white tones and metallic light blue. Impossible platform shoes make a comeback in the form of high boots and baggy ankle boots. And these elevated the models, but also the looks.

Capes -some of them presented with shoulder pads-, bombers, knitwear, quilted puffers with exaggerated and oversize shapes, and sequins presented in purple, black and green were some of the garments presented in the show, among the lot. The layering of pieces and asymmetry have been fundamental, but, generally speaking, volumes are a highlight of the collection. The work was architectural.

Once again, Owens has challenged conservatism and complacency; always from a dark side, but extremely creative and transgressive.