In recent years, Berlin Fashion Week has solidified its position as a pivotal point for cultivating emerging brands, characterized by a steadfast commitment to innovation, sustainability, and inclusivity. While established international brands continue to leave their mark, there’s a notable increasing number of emerging gamechangers within the fashion landscape.

Since 2023, Fashion Council Germany (FCG) has taken the helm as the new event organizer, facilitating designers by funding their shows through support grant systems. Christiane Arp, founder of FCG, articulated the collective effort at the BFW opening dinner, emphasizing the goal of enhancing the relevance of Berlin Fashion Week both nationally and internationally. «We have the feeling that the path we have taken in the past few seasons is the right one and that Berlin Fashion Week is becoming more and more popular. The efforts of recent years are paying off and we can continue to build on the positive feedback». On the same occasion, the FCG and Vogue Germany introduced their collaborative initiative, the “FCG Vogue Fashion Fund”, aimed at propelling the advancement of German fashion while providing substantial incentives to local brands. This commitment underscores a collective vision for a brighter future for the Berlin fashion scene.

Throughout the AW24 season, Berlin captivated attendees with its audacious and distinctive narrative, drawing inspiration from various subcultures, music, art, and cultural diversity. From the selection of runway venues to model castings, Berlin designers remained loyal to their commitment to being unapologetically unique, fostering an independent and artistic spirit that defines the city’s fashion ethos. Among all the 32 fashion shows, here is a recap of our favorite ones.

Olivia Ballard

“Le Lit” (translated as “The Bed”)

As a winner of the Berlin Contemporary competition by FCG, Olivia Ballard was inspired by one’s most intimate space: the bedroom. Set in the Pressecafé in Alexanderplatz, the show celebrates intimacy and vulnerability, blurring the boundaries between public and private realms. Featuring an almost naked cast adorned with pillow feathers in their hair (as if they just rolled out of their beds), Olivia Ballard seamlessly blended casual and couture, showcasing dresses and tops reminiscent of crumpled bed sheets and mattress paddings.

Trend alert: No judgment if you opt for your pillow instead of your bag when heading out next time.

William Fan

“Off Duty”

For William Fan’s newest ready-to-wear line, guests were invited inside the warming hall of the Olympic Stadium. The collection is centered on leisure and practicality, with wide-cut silhouettes and long and comfortable airy skirts. But not everyone in Berlin wears hoodies and boots! William Fan proposes chic layering, elegant shirts, including bags in various sizes with pearl elements and fringes, as well as sunglasses (this, in particular, is a first). Models were cast directly from the city streets to reflect the diversity of Berlin and to celebrate its raw realness.

Trend alert: Your feet can look forward to cozy slippers in the upcoming season.

Richert Beil

“Nachlass” (translated as “Heritage”)

Age diversity was noticeable across the majority of the shows at BFW, with Richert Beil’s 10-year anniversary show drawing inspiration from their own heritage. Going back to iconic items from their inaugural collection, the designer duo Jale Richert and Michele Beil dismantled familiar silhouettes, integrating non-traditional design methodologies and materials, such as old horse gear and saddles, vintage shapewear, and antique lace. To celebrate their history, Richert Beil chose elderly women to reflect the nostalgic theme of the collection, who walked down the runway to the sound of old German 60s songs. “Nachlass” represents a dialogue across diverse age groups, personalities, and traditions, connecting contrasting generations.

Trend alert: On your next birthday, serve cake in every possible manner.

Lou de Bètoly

“Lou De Bètoly AW24”

Having previously worked with Jean Paul Gaultier and dressed celebrities like Beyoncé, Rosalia, and Dua Lipa, designer Lou de Bètoly made her debut on the BFW calendar in 2019 and has maintained a standout presence since then. The AW24 show unfolded within a repurposed furniture store situated in Potsdamer Platz. The venue, swathed in black foil for the event, provided a striking contrast to the collection’s soft, powdery tones of black, white, turquoise, and lavender. Lou de Bètoly’s trademark handcrafting techniques transform recycled materials into luxurious garments, infusing collections with playfulness and uniqueness. Fabrics are manipulated to alter texture and form, with looks challenging our perception, such as the illusion of denim crocheted from yarn and sequins. By crafting skirts from bras and repurposing leather coats into bags, Lou de Bètoly stays true to her upcycling ethos.

Trend alert: Level up your sustainable wardrobe with wool spun from recycled dog hair waste. Fashion forward and eco-conscious, paws-itively fabulous.

Namilia

“Pfoten Weg!” (translated as “Hands Off!”)

Addressing the topic of hate towards queer and femme bodies in public spaces, the Berlin-based duo behind Kylie Jenner’s Khy brand unveils a distinctive pursuit: living out queer fantasies by obliterating and dismissing fashion boundaries. Drawing inspiration from medieval armors, hunting gear and white trash glamour, Namilia introduces new silhouettes and couture-inspired designs. The show, set against the backdrop of the Kulturforum in the Gemäldegalerie, features a diverse range of models, including varying body sizes and members of the Berlin queer community.

Trend alert: Embrace monogram prints paired with shades of pink and rhinestones (and remember to give yourself a reality check if you feel like the group of girls, gays and theys on the U-Bahn are being too flamboyant).

SF1OG

“SF1OG AW24”

On the third day of BFW, SF1OG took their guests on a nostalgic trip back to school, quite literally, as the runway show was held in the gymnasium of Ernst-Reuter-Gymnasium. Described as “a fragmented memory of teen life in the 2010s”, each piece of the new collection is meticulously tailored, from the dip-dyed blazers to the high riding boots. The models, walking in the classroom and sitting at their desks, represent diverse backgrounds and age groups, handpicked by Kyra Sophie Wilhelmseder to embody the brand’s inclusive ethos. The line features collaborations with Eastpak and Dr. Martens, showcasing an equal mix of repurposed and deadstock materials. SF1OG emphasizes the importance of looking back while moving forward. Are you taking notes?

Trend alert: With recycled leather paper hats printed with newspaper, and vegan leather paper cones (also known as Schultüte in German), school has never been this cool.

Sia Arnika

“Sia Arnika AW24”

Sia Arnika, one of the winners of the Berlin Contemporary award, unveiled her AW24 collection, drawing inspiration from the legendary silent film star, Asta Nielsen. The collection, showcased in a former club in Potsdamer Platz, exuded sensuality and an enigmatic darkness, with blood-red and sensual black dresses. Exploring themes of transformation through clothing, fabrics, the designs are influenced by Nielsen’s several roles. With the help of unique Danish embroidery techniques, the collection emphasizes contrasts such as chaos and embellishment, the ordinary and the daring, and the intricacies of layering and sculpting.

Trend alert: You’ll have a hard time trying to find an outfit that can’t be perfectly complemented by her vegan leather boots in collaboration with Untitlab.