SICKY
SICKY

© JEAN PAUL GAULTIER × SACAI

Gaultier passes the torch to Sacai

JULY 8, 2021 → WORDS RONALD KAHIHIKOLO

 

Self-described “Enfant Terrible” designer, Jean Paul Gaultier, retired in January 2020 with a blowout couture show that shook the world. However, the designer made the decision to pursue future haute couture collections in collaboration with a revolving cast of star-studded guest designers. For this collection, the unconventional fashion house joins forces with formidable fashion designer, Chitose Abe, founder of the luxury label, Sacai, to create a whirlwind of a collection. 

Gaultier has granted Abe full access to his archive and workrooms, for her reimagined vision of some of the most iconic designs. The couture collection glided down the runway in classic Gaultier style, fused with a Sacai twist, synergized in every sense. Abe paid homage to Gaultier’s renowned elements while injecting her signature hybrid construction techniques into each piece. The couture collection made its official debut at Maison’s HQ in Paris, releasing around 30 pieces that honor the legacy of Gaultier. 

“It’s very strange. It’s going to be a new sensation for me, in this building I know so well. This is a part of it that I don’t know: sitting in the audience watching a show. I’m usually backstage, and I’m made to be backstage, so it’s going to be both very surprising and very moving for me, I’m sure it will be absolutely gorgeous. I’ve seen a couple of things, but I gave her complete freedom. I didn’t want to see any of the finished looks,” Gaultier expressed before the show. 

Fur motifs, Corsets, apprehensive pinstripes, and deconstructed pieces plague the collection, conjuring up a feeling of conspicuous edginess and upper-class chaos. The playful mixture of multiple textures and various patterns also give rise to this feeling, showcasing the multipurpose use of the pieces as well as the artistic vision of Abe. Petticoat-like silhouettes exemplify the outerwear through the melding of modern-day textiles and antique shapes.  

Denim was featured heavily, with upcycled jeans that were cut with precision, creating avant-garde silhouettes. The modifications of traditional placements also took place as pockets were given new meaning and skirts were assembled by various pieces of trousers. The chunky platform boots were also adorned and laced with flurries of denim fabric.  

The classic tattoo printed long sleeves also make an appearance on some of the looks, peaking through knits, gowns, and sheer tops. The attention to detail amplifies the presence of both brands, especially through the fringe detailing that grants extensive movement to the garments and the wearer. From the detailed chains, buttons, to the patchwork detailing and hardware, each jive together to bring forth a marriage of two minds. 

It’s the beginning of a new era for Gaultier and Sacai is the first of many who will carry the torch and bring forth sleek and innovative designs.

© JEAN PAUL GAULTIER × SACAI

Gaultier passes the torch to Sacai

JULY 8, 2021 → WORDS RONALD KAHIHIKOLO

 

Self-described “Enfant Terrible” designer, Jean Paul Gaultier, retired in January 2020 with a blowout couture show that shook the world. However, the designer made the decision to pursue future haute couture collections in collaboration with a revolving cast of star-studded guest designers. For this collection, the unconventional fashion house joins forces with formidable fashion designer, Chitose Abe, founder of the luxury label, Sacai, to create a whirlwind of a collection. 

Gaultier has granted Abe full access to his archive and workrooms, for her reimagined vision of some of the most iconic designs. The couture collection glided down the runway in classic Gaultier style, fused with a Sacai twist, synergized in every sense. Abe paid homage to Gaultier’s renowned elements while injecting her signature hybrid construction techniques into each piece. The couture collection made its official debut at Maison’s HQ in Paris, releasing around 30 pieces that honor the legacy of Gaultier. 

“It’s very strange. It’s going to be a new sensation for me, in this building I know so well. This is a part of it that I don’t know: sitting in the audience watching a show. I’m usually backstage, and I’m made to be backstage, so it’s going to be both very surprising and very moving for me, I’m sure it will be absolutely gorgeous. I’ve seen a couple of things, but I gave her complete freedom. I didn’t want to see any of the finished looks,” Gaultier expressed before the show. 

Fur motifs, Corsets, apprehensive pinstripes, and deconstructed pieces plague the collection, conjuring up a feeling of conspicuous edginess and upper-class chaos. The playful mixture of multiple textures and various patterns also give rise to this feeling, showcasing the multipurpose use of the pieces as well as the artistic vision of Abe. Petticoat-like silhouettes exemplify the outerwear through the melding of modern-day textiles and antique shapes.  

Denim was featured heavily, with upcycled jeans that were cut with precision, creating avant-garde silhouettes. The modifications of traditional placements also took place as pockets were given new meaning and skirts were assembled by various pieces of trousers. The chunky platform boots were also adorned and laced with flurries of denim fabric.  

The classic tattoo printed long sleeves also make an appearance on some of the looks, peaking through knits, gowns, and sheer tops. The attention to detail amplifies the presence of both brands, especially through the fringe detailing that grants extensive movement to the garments and the wearer. From the detailed chains, buttons, to the patchwork detailing and hardware, each jive together to bring forth a marriage of two minds. 

It’s the beginning of a new era for Gaultier and Sacai is the first of many who will carry the torch and bring forth sleek and innovative designs.