Burberry Fall Winter 2021 Menswear

FEBRUARY 22, 2021
WORDS JESÚS S FERRERA

Even though this edition of LFW unites womenswear and menswear, today Burberry has decided to present separately its FW21 Menswear collection. This has been Ricardo Tisci’s first menswear-focused collection for the British label with a show titled Escape. It has been showcased in the emblematic Regent Street store in the heart of London.

Tisci has stated that this presentation pretends to “celebrate the freedom of expression”. Whilst we are living times in which being enclosed indoors is the most common thing, the creative director of Burberry has dreamed of the outdoors and its beauty. The stay-at-home mood (and look) is left aside to get fancy and go out again. At least, that’s what you can feel when watching the procession of models throughout the set.

But the most thrilling thing is that this has been a fashion show in which the traditional conception of masculinity is once again shaken by models wearing what appear to be pleated skirts. They already say it in their press release: “this collection gently challenges and subtly reinvents traditions”. And such a prestigious and historical brand shaking the foundations of the established is truly exciting to see.

Regarding the inspiration of the show, Tisci “became fascinated by the widespread British craft and outdoor movements of the early 20th Century, when people escaped to explore the unknown countryside.” And in that sense, not only craft, colours and shapes become inspiration, but also the values and the camaraderie of the movement. These values are evoked with symbolism in the garments, through badges and adornments that make reference to community, friendship and codes of belonging.

The trench coat, beige colour and the Burberry monogram -reinvented by Tisci himself a few years ago- has evolved but is still present. Also, the animal kingdom becomes again protagonist, as deer motifs inspire the silhouettes of knitted beanies. The palette of the collection not only includes the iconic beige, but also bark brown, oxblood burgundy, city greys and shirting shades of pale blue and pink.

This collection essentially honours a deep connection to outdoors, to creativity and to dreams. But ultimately, it is an homage to the relationship between humanity and nature, which is undoubtedly a longing in this day and age.