Art School Fall Winter 2021

FEBRUARY 21, 2021
WORDS JESÚS S FERRERA

The London fashion label Art School presented yesterday its FW21 collection. Titled Ascension, this is the beginning of a new era following the departure of former creative partner Tom Barratt. Eden Loweth, now alone at the helm of the brand, stated that this collection couldn’t feel like a celebration.

That’s patent in every part of the show. The space -The Old Truman Bewery-, model’s rictus, the background music -violins that keep the audience in constant tension-, and the garments themselves.

The looks were fundamentally monochromatic, ranging from black to white, through red tones. The colour remains intact, but the fabrics and textures change: distressed silk fabrics, hints of shimmer, leather, their signature drape dresses. At the end, white tones showed up and with that came vocal music -which was actually a repetitive succession of numbers-. It felt like reaching the climax, or like reaching “the light at the end of the tunnel”, as Ascensions also pretends to be a message of hope.

Community has always been central for Art School, and that community is built upon the representation of diversity. Bodies we have barely seen in a mainstream show, appear in the scene making their weaknesses become their main weapon. And that’s definitely what Art School is about.

Finally, the music slows down and a pristine white dress closes a show in what seems to be a statement of intent, always addressing the queer community, Eden states that: “No matter how hard the challenges our community may face, we will emerge from the darkness. Together we will rise.”