← A. ROEGE HOVE ↓
Danish knitwear designer Amalie Røge Hove showcased her 8th collection during this season of CPHFW. Røge Hove’s craftsmanship is based on the iteration of yarn loops that are tied repeatedly shaping garments that envelop the body. She proves that knitwear does not need to have a traditionally soft expression, but that it can also be crafted into pieces with sharp edges and almost architectural shapes. By using different yarns, densities and techniques, she challenges our visual perception of color firstly tapping into bolder tints such as lilac and apple green in contrast to her usual rather monochromatic color palette.
← (DI)VISION ↓
“Create from what already is” is (Di)vision’s motto and underlines the young labels ethical practices working with pre-existing materials.
For the upcoming SS23 season, Simon and Nanna Wick have drawn heavy inspiration from Francis Ford Coppola’s “Apocalypse Now” from 1979. The SS23 elaborates on the difficult themes of the film, from war to its psychological impact on people, which feels very relevant in today’s world of conflict. Hosted in the woods, the collection included military gear inspired clothing such as bomber jackets and cargo pants made out of deadstock or upcycled materials.
← JADE CROPPER ↓
After her debut at last season’s CPHFW, Swedish designer Jade Cropper returns to the Danish capital with her second collection.
This season, Cropper's collection almost gave the impression of expressionist art. This art movement is particularly characterized by the depiction of the inner self and the feelings of the artist, rather than the outer world of objects. Such expressionist characteristics are consistent with Cropper’s perception of herself as she admits that she is “quite introverted, and fashion has become [her] way of expressing [herself]”.
In addition, other leitmotifs of Expressionism can be found in her inspiration for the collection, such as an enthusiasm for decay in nature and beauty of the imperfect. The collection included bleached and hand-dyed denim pieces, monogramed and gradient fine knits, distressed knitwear and leather fastenings. All looks were presented by the models wearing heels by Dutch leather brand Wandler.
← OPÉRASPORT ↓
Danish label OpéraSPORT celebrated their debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week and was openly said to be one of the most awaited shows on the calendar. Founded by Awa Malina Stelter and Stephanie Gundelach, their label demonstrates that one does not need to compromise on sexiness and sustainability. The two draw special inspiration from the metropolises of Copenhagen and Paris, but also confident and powerful women such as their current muse - model Alva Claire. For SS23 OpéraSPORT sent down a very size-inclusive collection ranging from XS-XXL dominated by fine knitted cardigans and dresses, as well as quilted jackets and bags in sunset pink and hues of purple. During the finale, both fired up the selected audience with Beyoncé’s latest catchy tune “Break my Soul” alluding to a wishful future for them true to the lyrics “I'm on that new vibration, I'm building my own foundation”.