Zegna hits the reset button
JUNE 18, 2021 → WORDS RONALD KAHIHIKOLO
The alteration of categories is an ongoing process in which Zegna takes pride in. A reset button stands between the craftsmanship of past seasons and the slate has been wiped clean to produce Set.58, a tailored possibility for the new world. This collection speaks to its past self in order to revamp a new collection that is embedded with an evolutional and fluid code. They keep the connotations of tailoring in both methodology and construction all while devising a contemporary use of fabrications geared towards the needs of today. This forward-thinking mindset takes form in a new language of fresh designs and silhouettes by pushing the envelope of crafting awareness forward.
Artistic director Alessandro Sartori explores the possibilities of pensive tailoring and innovative fabric making by conjuring up a scale of possibilities to which the individual can adopt and adapt. The fluid volumes and streamlined shapes ignite an imaginative dialogue exchange between clothing, body, and gestures. The sense of properness that is a corollary of formality is translated into a harmonious, yet unpredictable use of colors, textures, and a subtle non-formal look.
“My aim at Zegna is to create an accord between the essence of tailoring, which is our reason for being, and the rhythm of the modern world. What I have done is a rewiring of luxury crafting, following a flow that frees the man while keeping the distinctiveness, offering pieces that are easy to wear as they are inventive. Effortlessness is the key”, says Alessandro Sartori.
The new collection is marked by an utter sense of lightness. Loose-fitting and casual silhouettes are what revolve around collarless kimono shapes, utilitarian chore coats, drapey dusters, voluminous overshirts, and a new generation of knitwear. The inclusion of weightless, tightly woven fabrics and paper-thin leathers enable the shapes and silhouettes to exhibit the clarity and precision of these designs without the use of padding or constructions. It is the firmness of line encounters that grant freedom of movement. This set is an act of translation that takes inspiration from the practicality and pragmatism of workwear to get a progressive spin on tailoring, with magnified details - oversized pocket flaps, augmented drawstrings - making a statement without forsaking practicality.
The movement of each piece is secured by the interflow of silhouettes and innovative fabrics where vegetal fibers, new blends, jersey, and #UseTheExisting fabrics serve as the core element. Boxy blazers are cut in either padded, washed silks or in featherlight nylons; long parkas come in overdyed wool, silk, hemp, and linen twills. From glazed wool, extreme matting, geometric patterns, and more, a glimmer of artistry peaks through the way in which each piece is unveiled and produced. The principal theme of lightness bleeds into the chromatic looks which are conveyed by the washed-out color palette that amalgamates pale notes of calcite, workwear white, ammonite, under bark, mineral green, cypress with calm tones of dark concrete and matt black and lights up with sudden bursts of skylight, utility blue, amethyst, and cobalt.
The collection is presented in the form of a film that plays off an energizing juxtaposition of freedom and restraint. The camera moves fluidly inside a green labyrinth to open up in glimpses of the concrete jungle, playing off narrow spaces with vast horizons, the human and the natural, embodying a new set in which opposite worlds merge to progress.
Zegna hits the reset button
JUNE 18, 2021 → WORDS RONALD KAHIHIKOLO
The alteration of categories is an ongoing process in which Zegna takes pride in. A reset button stands between the craftsmanship of past seasons and the slate has been wiped clean to produce Set.58, a tailored possibility for the new world. This collection speaks to its past self in order to revamp a new collection that is embedded with an evolutional and fluid code. They keep the connotations of tailoring in both methodology and construction all while devising a contemporary use of fabrications geared towards the needs of today. This forward-thinking mindset takes form in a new language of fresh designs and silhouettes by pushing the envelope of crafting awareness forward.
Artistic director Alessandro Sartori explores the possibilities of pensive tailoring and innovative fabric making by conjuring up a scale of possibilities to which the individual can adopt and adapt. The fluid volumes and streamlined shapes ignite an imaginative dialogue exchange between clothing, body, and gestures. The sense of properness that is a corollary of formality is translated into a harmonious, yet unpredictable use of colors, textures, and a subtle non-formal look.
“My aim at Zegna is to create an accord between the essence of tailoring, which is our reason for being, and the rhythm of the modern world. What I have done is a rewiring of luxury crafting, following a flow that frees the man while keeping the distinctiveness, offering pieces that are easy to wear as they are inventive. Effortlessness is the key”, says Alessandro Sartori.
The new collection is marked by an utter sense of lightness. Loose-fitting and casual silhouettes are what revolve around collarless kimono shapes, utilitarian chore coats, drapey dusters, voluminous overshirts, and a new generation of knitwear. The inclusion of weightless, tightly woven fabrics and paper-thin leathers enable the shapes and silhouettes to exhibit the clarity and precision of these designs without the use of padding or constructions. It is the firmness of line encounters that grant freedom of movement. This set is an act of translation that takes inspiration from the practicality and pragmatism of workwear to get a progressive spin on tailoring, with magnified details - oversized pocket flaps, augmented drawstrings - making a statement without forsaking practicality.
The movement of each piece is secured by the interflow of silhouettes and innovative fabrics where vegetal fibers, new blends, jersey, and #UseTheExisting fabrics serve as the core element. Boxy blazers are cut in either padded, washed silks or in featherlight nylons; long parkas come in overdyed wool, silk, hemp, and linen twills. From glazed wool, extreme matting, geometric patterns, and more, a glimmer of artistry peaks through the way in which each piece is unveiled and produced. The principal theme of lightness bleeds into the chromatic looks which are conveyed by the washed-out color palette that amalgamates pale notes of calcite, workwear white, ammonite, under bark, mineral green, cypress with calm tones of dark concrete and matt black and lights up with sudden bursts of skylight, utility blue, amethyst, and cobalt.
The collection is presented in the form of a film that plays off an energizing juxtaposition of freedom and restraint. The camera moves fluidly inside a green labyrinth to open up in glimpses of the concrete jungle, playing off narrow spaces with vast horizons, the human and the natural, embodying a new set in which opposite worlds merge to progress.